bespoke menswear San Francisco
Al's Attire SF
 
As we walked up Vallejo Street in North Beach toward Caffe Trieste, our coffee hunt took a turn when we set sights on Al's Attire, kitty-corner from our destination.  Street appeal is more than good windows, clear signage, or a familiar logo — it's about a feeling and tone that draws us into a space, because there's something undeniably unique and/or compelling.  
 
Situated on the corner with floor to ceiling windows, the nearly 4000 square foot San Francisco store has a fish bowl quality. Part retail space and workshop, vintage-inspired off-the-rack apparel and accessories serve as inspiration for custom hand-crafted men's and women's hats, shirts, ties, dresses, coats, and shoes. 
 
Al's Attire
 
It would be easy to mistake the merchandise as vintage until you start to read the hundreds of personalized shoe and garment labels of previous and current clients on display above a sewing machine. 
 
As fans of all things bespoke, custom, and personalized, it's hard to find fault in the stores merchandising and easy to understand why retailers such as All Saints use similar props to portray a heritage theme. But Al's Attire is the real deal. Shoe lasts, fabric bolts, and leather swatches are all displayed among hat blocks and cutting tables as part of the working atelier. The assortment strikes a balance between need and want — merchandise and display.  
 
Al's Attire
 
All of the handsome clothing and genuine merchandising would just be art without the stellar customer service, craftsmanship, and attention to detail. During our visit, Al Ribaya and his team worked together to inform clients on materials, findings, and trim that would best fit the desired look, while still meeting their strict construction standards. At the shoe fitting pictured above, Rene took a combination of measurements and photos, along with drawings to ensure that every detail and input was accounted for during a nearly 60 minute shoe consultation. To say that Al is meticulous is an understatement.  
 
A quick search of the internet (the Al's Attire website is coming soon) proves that we're not the only customers enamored with the attention to detail. The list of clients and collaborations range from international musicians to thespians  — event planners to a San Francisco based American jeans manufacturer. In chatting with Al, it's obvious that each customer and order, regardless of the magnitude, receives the same care. 
 
As mass market retailers continue to offer a less than authentic representation of craftsmanship, it seems to us that businesses like Al's Attire appear more differentiated by simply staying the course and being true to their brand vision. We think that the growth opportunities in menswear, combined with the uptick consumers desire for an genuine narrative, make true craftsmanship like that at Al's Attire shine. 
T Magazine buzz
 
Change is relative.
 
After much anticipation, the new WSJ Magazine and the new T Magazine hit newsstands within a week of each other. One cover headline read “PURE ELEGANCE”, and the other “TRUE ELEGANCE”. Yes, both headlines were in all caps.
 
For those of you unfamiliar with the drama, Deborah Needleman was the editor in chief of the WSJ Magazine, but left to overhaul T magazine for The New York Times. WWD has stories about both here and here that are worth reading.
 
This isn’t a tribute or take down piece of either approach. Truthfully, we were very excited to compare and contrast how dueling editors would relaunch and redesign from the helm. There was an infographic in the works and plenty of quantitative research so as to carefully give an unbiased opinion based on facts. We counted the times that each editor used terms like change or simplicity (too many). But, in the end, the results and content was shockingly similar:
 
Kitten heels – Check. Supermodel profile – Indeed. Black and white statement pictorial – Done. Designer profiles – Without a doubt. Game changing rings from Balenciaga by Nicholas Ghesquière – Spot on. Feature on the son or daughter of a mega fashion portfolio founder (Pinault vs. Arnault) – Naturally.
 
According to our research, the biggest difference between the two came in the form of advertisements and photo editorials. While both produced excellent feature stories, T Magazine had 11% more ads as a portion of total pages, but had 21% less photo layouts. If that is an effective long term strategy or not, remains to be seen.

There's a strong message about branding, innovation, and execution however, that is relevant both inside and outside the media and fashion forum: when launching a product or service, don't simply subscribe to a formulaic approach based simply on what others are implementing. Create your own vision, differentiate, and find a true customer need. 
 
good merchandising
Karl CocaCola
 
Have you ever wondered why chefs, designers, and celebrities continue to innovate with new cookbooks or products? Or why collaborations are so successful at driving acquisition?
 
It’s because brands understand the power of loyalty and are willing to play the numbers to jumpstart merchandising strategies.
 
A new study shows that 60% of shoppers prefer new products from a familiar brand rather than switch to a new brand, according to the Nielsen Global Survey of New Product Purchase Sentiment.

“Innovating on established brands that are already trusted by consumers can be a powerful strategy,” said Rob Wengel, Senior Vice President, Nielsen Innovation Analytics. “Companies spend millions of dollars on new product innovation, yet two out of every three new products will not be on the market within three years. Marketers and retailers can deliver successful new products by ensuring they uncover unmet consumer needs, communicate with clarity, deliver distinct product innovations, and execute an optimal marketing strategy.”

Half (50%) of global respondents say they are generally willing to consider a new product purchase, with respondents in North America and the Middle East/Africa (57%) most enthusiastic about making a switch. Nielsen’s survey shows that value and proof-of-concept make a difference: more than two-thirds (64%) of respondents say they would consider value or store-brand options, and two-thirds (60%) will wait until a new innovation has proven itself before making a purchase.

“Consumers are enthusiastic about adopting new product innovations but somewhat apprehensive about embracing new brands,” said Wengel. “In order for consumers to adopt new brands, marketers need to launch very strong awareness and trial-building campaigns, supported by a positive product experience. Generating positive word-of-mouth endorsements are important, because negative experiences can significantly diminish the likelihood of new product success.”

While there is no one-size-fits-all approach to developing a compelling new item, brand familiarity is clearly one of several key characteristics that resonate strongly with consumers so that products are easily recognizable on the shelf.

 
 
If Juice Fasts and Yoga Spinning aren’t challenging enough, try finding an editor or blogger that hasn’t encountered a rogue publicist. The kind that will email a pitch by the thousands and insists Groupon is the best growth platform for any luxury brand.
 
Most publicists strive to maintain pristine reputations and strong relationships. However, even those in the spin business know that a “bad press is good press” mantra can not fix a publicist gone wild. When it’s done right, PR can help grow awareness and drive sales, but if your brand is in the wrong hands, your PR efforts may be hurting you.
 
It seems fairly obvious that you shouldn’t pitch electronics to a beauty blogger, but it happens. “It’s an epidemic,” says Lara Eurdolian, blogger and founder of Pretty Connected. “My inbox is regularly flooded with worthless content I'd never feature and it feels like my name is on every press list. Even worse is the lack of research and poor email etiquette — text in all caps, careless misspellings and unprofessional, mass distribution.”
 
Skilled community managers are strategic in their engagement efforts and will look to target bloggers and editors that align well with the brand they are representing. These are often long-term efforts and cannot risk being harmed by a problematic publicist. On the other hand, if your social media team isn’t strategic with their outreach and habitually spams editors, bloggers, and publicists — they’ll be harming your brand’s image faster than your PR team can run damage control.

Your brand is your most valuable asset, so it’s important to be aware of how it is represented in the media and ensure a strategic, unified presentation throughout all channels. Engagement truly is king, especially among collaborative marketing teams where traditional communication lines have clearly blurred.


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Julie Ashkenazi is the co-founder of Medium— a strategic eCommerce and online marketing studio dedicated building unique, compelling and successful brands with cohesive design aesthetics and analytics. Connect with her on Twitter or LinkedIn.
 
A common misconception is that simply by having a website, sales will roll in — and in spades. Regrettably, this is not the case, and some brands, especially those small and new, have learned this the hard way.
 
Launching a website and ignoring online marketing is like opening a business and not telling anyone about it. You wouldn’t launch a new product, retail venture, or even hold a press event without strategic planning. Digital marketing requires the same consideration, and brands are missing incredible opportunities by not implementing strategies for online growth and development. However, many are unsure what they need, what to expect, and whether or not they can afford it.
 
A typical digital marketing campaign involves a combination of email, search, and social marketing, all of which require the collaborative efforts of a team of writers, designers, developers, marketers and analysts. Though positioning, aesthetic, and budgets are diverse — the same rules apply. Marketing initiatives must be cohesive, strategic, and aligned in order to be successful.
 
If you’re a smaller company with a limited marketing budget, social media is an excellent platform to build brand awareness and grow your online community. However, a bona fide social media campaign involves more than merely having a Facebook page or a Twitter account. It takes time and commitment and requires ongoing interaction with your community. It’s essential to provide a dialogue that includes unique, relevant content and not a constant stream of product or sale announcements. This is important not only from an engagement perspective, but also from a branding perspective, because if you continually discount your products in order to drive web sales, you’re at risk of brand erosion.
 
If you’re going to take a DIY approach to social marketing, make sure to avoid these common mistakes:
 
  • Syncing your social media channels.
    While it might be a timesaver, each platform has a different audience and therefore the messaging should be tailored differently.
  • Not interacting with your followers.
    Social media is the new customer service. As your online presence grows, expect to receive feedback, comments and even complaints from your fans — and always respond promptly.
  • Sending Auto Direct Message’s to your Twitter followers.
    In his article, Augie Ray explains that not only do people dislike Auto DMs, they think less of those who send them and are quite likely to unfollow the senders or even report them as spam.
 
Adding a blog to your website is another great and affordable way to expand your online presence and provide customers with a more intimate understanding of your brand. It allows you the opportunity to speak more in depth about products, ingredients, causes, and lifestyle topics that are relevant to your customer and — similar to social media platforms — gives them a chance to interact with your company. Additionally, since blog content is crawled by search engines, it’s likely that your website’s organic search results will improve as you continue to develop your blog.
 
As your brand awareness grows, hopefully your email subscriber list grows along with it. Once you have a fairly robust email list, you might want to consider launching an email marketing campaign to promote new product launches and special offers. However, take the time to familiarize yourself with email regulations before launching a campaign to ensure you are compliant with all regulations, including the CAN-SPAM Act, in order to prevent blacklisting and guarantee deliverability.
 
If budget permits, you might also want to consider launching a paid search campaign, however this tends to be one of the more expensive options and typically requires a fairly significant budget in order to be competitive. However, when used in combination with SEO and targeted landing pages, paid search can be a powerful marketing tool, providing immediate, measurable results.
 
As with any marketing initiative, traditional or digital, it’s important to do your research before embarking on new endeavors — and that includes giving your online marketing plan the consideration it deserves for your business to succeed.
 
 
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Julie Ashkenazi is the co-founder of Medium— a strategic eCommerce and online marketing studio dedicated building unique, compelling and successful brands with cohesive design aesthetics and analytics. Connect with her on Twitter or LinkedIn.
 
 
It's rare that we'll tweet our whereabouts or use a brand's handle before or during a market exploration or retail safari. We're not fans of preferential treatment and always watch what we say in 140 characters. And because we keep a fairly low profile, we don't have to go to great lengths to conceal our identity.
 
But why does this matter?
Earlier this year, the FTC published new guidelines on endorsements — which carefully outline what writers can blog and micro-blog about. And the FTC can fine both the blogger and the company for not disclosing an arrangement where the company compensates the blogger for a review, positive mention, or sponsored post.
 
And why are we mentioning this?
Because there's a lot of free swag out there and it's important to consider social integrity online before “monetizing" a blog or tweeting up a client as a social media consultant.
 
Brand strategy is more than a logo and positioning statement. It's the act of building external and internal communications that tell a story. In the digital age, user interface is your brand — regardless of the products you sell, services or intelligence you provide.
 
Our tight lips allowed us to enjoy our time in Calistoga, and our brand was able to deliver the unbiased reporting that we hope you have grown to love. For the record, Solage Resort and Spa was worth every penny of the bill. And we got this great photo of a hot air balloon over Solbar to prove it.
 
 
{photo: Julie Ashkenazi via Instagram}
 
They might not be as glamorous as their A-List colleagues, but art directors are the unsung heroes of the awards season. And although I’m not, as they say in LA, “in the industry,” the contributions and efforts of art directors in our industry warrant a little acknowledgement of their own.
 
By its very definition, art direction is somewhat vague, so it's no wonder most people don't understand it. Often confused with designers, art directors are responsible for creating concepts and unifying the overall visual — the look and feel of a brand — including the color palette, type treatment and photography. One of the biggest differences between an art director and a graphic designer is that, in addition to creating compelling designs, an art director must also make the product or brand engaging in order to generate consumer interest.
 
It’s obvious there’s a strong art director behind every successful print campaign, but spend five minutes online and it’s clear that many brands overlook the importance of art direction on the web. Granted, there are design limitations on the web that don’t exist in print, but it’s important to maintain a digital presence that’s visually consistent with your overall brand experience. And it’s equally important to integrate eMarketing best practices into your online presentation to ensure your website is both branded and easy to shop from.
 
Online Art Direction Basics:
  • Whether you are working with commissioned or stock photography, all images should be consistent in terms of lighting, mood, and overall presentation.
  • All photography needs to support the brand positioning and copy.
  • Be consistent with the lighting, angles, and reflections of product photography.
  • Select a color palette that works for all of your online needs and don’t deviate from it.
  • Identify type specs, establish hierarchy rules, and apply them to copy accordingly.
  • Establish a smart balance of text and graphic text in order to create a presentation that’s both branded and SEO-friendly.
  • Don’t overuse your brand identity typeface.
  • Don’t overuse branding and/or graphic elements.
 
Similar to print advertising, it’s important to keep your communication goals and objectives in mind at all times and to use it as the foundation for your visual approach. And most importantly, never forget to put yourself in the position of your audience—after all, they’re the customer.
 
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Julie Ashkenazi is the co-founder of Medium— a strategic eCommerce and online marketing studio dedicated building unique, compelling and successful brands with cohesive design aesthetics and analytics. Connect with her on Twitter or LinkedIn.
 
Digital Flagship
 
These words are poised to redefine luxury eCommerce.
 
"Digital Flagship"
 
We've never seen it in print before but we're betting that digital strategists, advertising executives, art directors, and marketers will take note quickly. "Digital Flagship" elevates the shopping experience from the basic portal for retail locations and collections to something worldly and complete. It denotes premium positioning while remaining approachable.
 
More importantly, the phrase confirms Gucci's investment in eCommerce as more than a channel strategy. It's the solution. 
 
[Update 7.30.12]
A number of our friends on twitter have been quick to point out that the term dates back to 2010 but it is important to note that brands, editors, and PR agencies positioning eCommerce as "digital flagship" is very different than using the term within an advertisement. The term is not new to internal communication but still relevant from consumer point-of-view.
 
For example, Burberry has long been at the forefront of messaging their website as a digital flagship but the eCommerce messaging remains "store". In contrast, the new online messaging on Gucci.com is consistent with the advertisement and redefining the category from a consumers perspective.
 
 
{Editors note: please forgive the photo quality — the magazine got wet in transit.}
{source: Vogue.uk, August 2012}
Kulture Park

What happens to food courts, amusement parks, and Olympic venues when they are outdated and overgrown?  Should they be revitalized or demolished?

Three projects across the globe are re-imaging, re-branding, and re-financing iconic structures with the hope of tapping into consumer culture with inspiring and informing works.
 
Act One: Global
Jon Pack and Gary Hustwit are exploring the legacy and impact of the Olympic Games on economies, architecture, and building via a kickstarter photography project titled The Olympic City. The fully funded hardcover art book will document the successes and failures, the forgotten remnants, and ghosts after the torch is extinguished.
 
 
According to he project page, "Some former Olympic sites are retrofitted and used in ways that belie their grand beginnings; turned into prisons, housing, malls, gyms, churches. Others sit unused for decades and become tragic time capsules, examples of misguided planning and broken promises of the benefits that the Games would bring. We're interested in these disparate ideas — decay and rebirth — and how each site seems to have gone one way or the other, either by choice or circumstance. We're equally interested in the lives of the people whose neighborhoods have been transformed by Olympic development."
 
The team is now crowdsourcing other Olympic cities from members who back the project — with Sarajevo announced days ago. So far, the team has photographed Los Angeles, Montreal, Lake Placid, Athens, Rome, and Mexico City.
 
Days remain to support the book (approximately 200 pages) and New York City exhibition before finalizing summer and fall travel. With $54,813 of the $45,000 needed for the project to be fully funded, it's clear to us that the idea resonates with the collective community.
 
We were so moved by the project that our founder became a backer. To learn more click here.
 
Act Two: Berlin, Germany
From June 28-July 1, 2012, Kulturpark will re-open an abandoned amusement park located in the sprawling Treptow Park in Berlin to explore the poetics and potential of these recent ruins, building upon the unique energy of Berlin’s urban, social, cultural, and political landscapes.
 
 

According to the website, the park, originally called Kulturpark Planterwald — built in 1969 by the German Democratic Republic — was a rare site for Soviet amusement and attraction. After the fall of the wall in 1989, the park became the family-owned Spreepark and suffered challenges of access, attendance, and economy. In 2001, the park closed from capital collapse. Ever since, visitors have regularly traversed the fence to explore this jungle of broken thrill machines.

Earlier this month students, artists, researchers and creatives from Berlin, Harvard University, the Urban Art Institute, and around designing site-specific works inside the park. The only working amusement ride, the train, will be utilized in the public interactive opening which includes a 2-day conference, public exhibition, and civic exchange.
 
We love how the Kulturepark team has ignited cultural imagination to explore opportunities for shared memories — past and presence.
 
Act Three: Seattle, Washington USA
Ever evolving as a community gathering space, Seattle Center is re-branding and remodeling its Food Court with artisans, chefs, and street food vendors to take over the new spaces and kiosks under the Century 21 Master Plan.
 
Seattle Center House Food
 
Built in 1939 as the old Armory Building, the Worlds Fair reconfigured the space into the first vertical shopping mall, called the Food Circus. Over the decades, not much had changed within Seattle Center's kid-centric, dated structure – including the fast-food menus and candy shops.
 
Scraping the food court persona, the re-named Armory/Center House includes a mix of local and regional merchants representing mobile operations, bakeries, and freestanding restaurants across the city. The list new operators breathing culinary life into the directory include: Skillet Counter, Pie, Eltana Wood-Fired Bagels, Mod Pizza, and The Confectional. Future planned openings include Bean Sprouts, Plum Bistro, Collections Café, Street Treats, and Bigfood.
 
Space Needle
 
As society continues to examine child health and diet, we’re particularly interested in the latest addition to the revitalization: Bean Spouts, a national café chain and cooking school dedicated to sparking children's appetites with yummy, good-for-you food. We hope these changes help to make happier mealtime – deserving of the 21st Century mantra.
 
 
{UPDATE June 29, 2012: Kulturepark in Berlin has launched it's exposition July 30th and July 31st. View the details and program here.}
smallest store in the world

IKEA smallest store

Here's a new spin on mini-momentum:  “The smallest store in the world” by Swedish housewares retailer IKEA.

Blending smart commerce, augmented reality (AR), and digital merchandising within a 300 X 250 (10.5cm x 8.8cm) web banner, the eCommerce store makes the most of space while representing the entire IKEA assortment. The video below explains the concept.

 

“With city populations on the rise, living spaces have become increasingly limited,” the company explains. “IKEA believes that no matter how cramped your space, there’s always a solution.” To demonstrate that belief, the company — generally known for its oversized retail spaces — has packed a full store with 2,800 products into the space of a small web banner. Shoppers who visit the diminutive store by hovering their mouse over it can then browse by department, choose what they want, and buy it online. “We targeted people looking for studio flats as well as one/two bedroom apartments by placing our tiny stores in the real estate section of community websites,” IKEA notes.

While this is certainly not the most practical way of browsing, we love how the messaging plays on brand-centric ideals which are meant to shift consumers perceptions away from from a mega-store mentality to an omni-channel experience.

Unlike a virtual retail installations, the IKEA "smallest store in the world" symbolizes thoughtful consumption while decreasing workload and span of design within the online and offline worlds.

{source: Springwise}